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Once you remove the oil pan and oil pump. You can rotate the engine to the desired piston (connecting rod) you want to work on. Remove the cap and replace the bearing. Remove the cap, push the connecting rod upwards. Slide the bearing out. Install the new upper bearing (add lube). Install the lower connecting rod cap with the bearing (add lube) the same way it was removed (very important). The cap is specific and must be installed the same way it was removed. Look at the side, you will see numbers. Torque to spec, this is most critical. Once you are done. Rotate the engine to make sure there is no binding and proceed from there.

@@TestECull I agree. Heads going to have come off either way. Customer is trying to buy some time before the engine gets repaired correctly or a newer truck. California has some strange rules when it comes to 2011-2013 trucks

@@CarlosDieselElectric I'd be surprised if it was running on more than 2 or 3 cylinders truth be told. Diesels live and die by compression and with one completely dead hole and two showing only 20-25% what they should have it's a miracle that thing started at all. Makes ya wonder why they're eating valves, though. This wasn't an issue with the Series 60 4-cycles or the 2-strokes before that. 'Course I have no doubt in my mind Commiefornia would have a siezure if you tried to register and use a tractor with a screaming jimmy in it today......

@@TestECull once the DD13 and DD15 switched to the single line on the intake cam. I noticed the valves get out of adjustment faster if not maintained. The dual lobe cam on the intake seems to have lasted much longer.

@@ofilippov probably not. But if you are concerned you can check just to be sure.

@@jamal-ce5yf depends on the engine. For ISX series. Yes. It’s a cylinder performance test. Goes through all 6 cylinders and is pass or fail. So similar yet slightly different

@@MarcoSandoval-sj4sv true. As long as the cylinder head is good to rebuild. That will save some money.

Put a rebuilt head on get rolling, time is $$$ ... or so I've been told.

@@IvanRodriguez-fg7wk I personally like the OEM software. But have heard good things about JPro. They seem to have good wiring diagrams included with their software. Detroit does not. That is a separate subscription which I think is weak. Cummins does offer diagrams and wiring with troubleshooting

OEM software is always better vs any aftermarket one.

Every mechanic is different on what they want. Some want you to bring it back for the first oil change to follow up. Then some 50K miles want to check the valves. But if you go by Detroit recommendations. 100K miles.

@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you for your reply

@@JoseMartinez-jl1mk sad but true. Those break downs get expensive

Manufacturer suggests VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT** ADJUST AT 100,000, AT 500,000 AND THEN EVERY 500,000 THEREAFTER. Those used truck only did the first time @ big transportation company, then sold to the market. Most of them don’t do this maintenance until breakdown. They don’t know it hurts engine and one box.

In my opinion,Hard to start, bad emission smells. Those symptoms means valves lash tight,fuel can’t burn completely, it goes to one box. That is why the one box failed fast after 600,000miles for someone.

@@JoseMartinez-jl1mk truth.

@@JoseMartinez-jl1mk you caught that. Yeah, there are a few of those out there.

@@marioarroyo9316 depending on how long it takes to find the issue. But to start you might be looking at 2 hours for troubleshooting

@@alexanderanderson8878 the line the comes off of the air compressor goes to the air filter housing. Not the discharge line but the other. That might cause a restriction. But I would look at carbon buildup in the lines.

@@Truckergregg yes. We are at 659 S Maple Ave. Montebello, Ca 90640

@@jesusnunez3583 depende, te puede quitar fuerza al motor un 25%

Thank you

There are a few options out there. I use the original software because it can do just about everything I need at our shop. A few customers have OTR or some even have the pirate version which seems to work for them. If you have any questions let me know. I’ll help as best I can.

I don’t believe so, unless you have some sort of portal or internet connection with someone who has the software.

@@CarlosDieselElectric I have the nexiq plus I could use my phone Wi-Fi to connect. But it be great if u or Francisco Amaya could do remote diagnostic, I do not trust florida shops.

Replacing the seals? Yes, the oil cooler seldom goes bad. I haven’t had one yet. I usually replace the seals and cooler as a precaution. But I have done just the seals. They tend to dry up and allow seepage

Difficult to say how long, the idea behind the reminder is to service the DPF system to prevent any damage to the One Box. The sooner the better. You can have the filters baked and cleaned or replace them with Reman or New units. Detroit recommends to have them exchanged.

diagnosticlink.nexiq.com/DTNA/Default.aspx This is the exact software I use. It is a subscription based but well worth it. I use the Standard version which allows me to make many changes except for programming (updates).

@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you 🙏🏼 love your channel. Want to stop by for a service in July

Less than 500K miles

Depends, it will start to derate the speed to about 55-65 mph How long has the light been on ?

@@CarlosDieselElectric about 4 days . I just keep resetting it for now . Someone said scr efficiency test helps but then this code keeps coming back and apparently there’s no fix . Sound like programming issue. I need to get to your shop in couple weeks to do the maintenance and check on these codes

@@user-ns9os2yt3i go into the aftermarket tab and reset or put New One Box. Someone told me that works. I haven’t been able to confirm but it’s worth a try.

@@CarlosDieselElectric for now I only have this OTR performance app that I use on the road . Not too many options on here . Will see how long I can drive before it puts me in derate. Currently I’m on East Coast Need to invest in better equipment

I personally do all my oil changes at 15,000 miles. That includes oil, oil filter and fuel filters. The only exception is the fuel water separator.

Que es no lo que no se ve?

Max is what is observed, when the value drops. That could be something with the DEF dosing, DEF pump or possibly a sensor issue. Would have to see what other codes are present and run a parked regen in order to see what the numbers are. Are you getting other fault codes ?

Those where my values when my codes pop up Description ASL: NH3 LARMF compensa.. Device ACM21T Value 0.82123 Unit Min(Observe... Max(Observ.. Max 0.50000035.. 1.99218893.

ASL: NH3 LARMF compensa... ACM21T Value 0.92236 Min(Observe... Max(Observ... Min 0.77954 0.92236 0.50000035. Max 1.99218893.. And these where after the scr test and my codes disappear

° DEF inducement DEF lamp active D DEF inducement CEL lamp active 521049 521052 [UDS-611 ACM21T - Aftertreatment Control Module 2.1 田 • SCR closed loop control at maximum limit 520372 J1939-61 - Exhaust Emission Controller Aftertreatment 1 SCR Conversion Efficiency - Condition Exists 4364 These are the codes I received

El motor se puede poner at TDC 1 o TDC6. La bomba de inyección se pone a TDC1 como dice el plato. Yo trato de poner el motor a TDC1 y la bomba a TDC1. A si van a tiempo los dos

@@CarlosDieselElectric gracias maestro sis videos son geniales aprendo mucho de usted la verdad explicas súper

Yes I agree I have the same problem with my truck also I have done research I can’t find anything on it

If this is for a Cascadia, I had the same problem. There are two thermistors on the front of the HVAC box inside the dash. There is one for ambient temperature and there is one for the temperature of the evaporator. You can get both parts from Freightliner pretty cheap and they're super simple to replace. They are essentially thermometers that have a sensor built into them to send the temperature reading to your HVAC system. I am not sure what symptoms you guys are having but not only was I getting that code I was also getting a lot of water coming out on the passenger side of my dashboard, right AC would also blow cold, but if I ran it for a while when the water started leaking, I'm assuming the evaporator froze up and the air would start to heat up because air was not passing through the evaporator properly.

If it is not those, your HVAC control unit is probably bad, could also be a wiring issue

​@@ChuckMcnuggetThanks bud! Got those sensors replaced. Seems to fix my problem - no more errors!

Buena pregunta. Recomiendo que se usa la medida correcta. Admisión 0.4 mm (0.016 in.) Escape 0.6 mm (0.024 in.)

659 S Maple Ave. Montebello, Ca 90640

@@CarlosDieselElectric thank you

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